DOOR SEAL 79-85 RIGHT AND LEFT (PAIR)

Right and Left side door seals for 1979-1985 RX7.  Sold as a pair.

These seals are specially made for us

We did extensive testing with the manufacturer. We really did ship them a PAIR of doors for their initial design /  fitting.
They then shipped us a pair for testing on doors HERE.  — THEY FIT GREAT! – AS GOOD AS THE OEMS.

SKU: 58|59-7600-8871
Manufacturer SKU: 8871-58|59-760

$82.00

1 review for DOOR SEAL 79-85 RIGHT AND LEFT (PAIR)

  1. Kyo787 (verified owner)

    Like the other Mazdatrix seals I have bought, these are very well made. As good or better than OE in fit and finish.

    As always they were packaged well, priced right; and delivered with speed.

    The first thing you might notice when you open the package is that there is one bag.
    “But I have two doors” you may think, you astute person. Indeed. Both strips came in one bag. Now, in my experience the US market RX-7 has “beige” clips on the right (passenger) side and white on the left (drivers,) and the Mazdatrix seals I received kept this convention. That said- I have never had a passion for concourse door clip analysis, so if you are concerned about the clips you never see matching stock perfectly- I guess do your homework and don’t take my word.
    Conveniently, should the color code trick fall through, if you examine the seals carefully, Mazdatrix has another trick up their sleeves- the parts suffix with the numbers to tell you which side was written on the seal, and for those who don’t know part numbers well enough to tell the side by the number, they also wrote a little “R” and “L” on there. That was my experiment anyway.

    If you don’t pay attention when removing your seals, know that the grooves on the door and number of clips towards the front and rear should tell you the orientation and also the side each goes on.

    When you remove your old seals, if you “pull them,” you’ll probably leave what will end up feeling like 900 clips in the doors as the strip peels off them.
    Using a trim panel/clip popper tool to remove the strips should prevent this, or just pull the old strips off and use a trim popper or some needle nose pliers with electrical tape wrapped on the nose or some other improvised tool to remove the old clips.
    If you don’t mind little plastic pieces rattling in your doors or fishing out a bu ch of nibs to avoid that, you can also use clippers and just cut the heads off the clips for the old strips.

    Ok. So now your old strips are off, you know which new strip fits which side and which way it goes. Open your door(s) and get to work. Install is pretty easy but by the design there is some fussing most likely.

    Line up your strip, I recommend starting at the top, one of the corners above the window- I chose rear.
    I find it easiest not to mess up the job and the paint to slip the “outer” facing side of the seal into its groove first, then while applying pressure to keep it there, I work along the “inner” edge with a tool- non marring panel tool, flat metal tool wrapped in tape- or just do what I did and use a flat head screw driver bare, and be careful. Whatever your comfort level and safety threshold against paint damage are. Once you’ve worked the top seal in, the lower parts should be a snap.

    Providing you aligned the top correctly, the clips should line up to the holes perfectly or with the slightest need to stretch the seal to sit perfectly.

    You might feel like the clips seem a little too small or feel loose- don’t worry.

    As you pop in each clip, place your finger or tool directly under the clip and push with purpose into the door. The last little tooth on the clip can require the strip to be compressed a bit in order to engage. Once you do this you should hear a small snap to indicate the last barb went in, and your seal should now be sitting right and feel secure on that clip.

    Move around the door, don’t miss any holes. They are self evident, or should be.

    Take one last look, gently pull your seal away from the door on both sides along its length, it should not come away. If it does you may need to redo that section.
    It should appear pretty even and uniform, bumps and dips likely indicate you made a good somewhere. You can take your non marring seal tool and run it along the inner lip of the seal from the top, pushing gently down and towards the channel in the door as you do, to help make sure the seal is all the way in the groove.

    Your doors may not close or make take ALOT of effort to close. New seals tend to do that on most openings.

    They will “relax” with time and settle in, but you can also adjust the door hinges/latch to accommodate the new seal and then adjust as the seal relaxes to keep a good fit and have the closing effort meet your specs.

    So quick recap:

    Great:
    – price
    – shipping
    – service
    – fit and finish

    Bonus:
    Each deal is marked with the proper side to help make it easier.

    Not so great:
    – I don’t enjoy putting in new door seals, but in glad I have new seals and that Mazdatrix is keeping parts available and affordable for these cars.

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    We did extensive testing with the manufacturer. We really did ship them a PAIR of doors for their initial design /  fitting.
    They then shipped us a pair for testing on doors HERE.  — THEY FIT GREAT! – AS GOOD AS THE OEMS.

     

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