WARRANTIES & RACING ONLY

Any form of racing, or very hard driving puts extreme loads on all parts. Any part(s) used in a race car/or high load capacity carries the basic no warranty of any kind and are sold "AS IS". Any implied warranties of fitting a particular application are denied. The purchaser and/or end user acknowledges they are fully responsible for any and all costs of replacing or repairing any part for any reason. If the purchaser is not to be the end user, then purchaser assumes all responsibility, expressed or implied, of all subsequent users of parts supplied by/thru MAZDATRIX. Purchaser also assumes ALL responsibility/risks for anything that might change/make illegal the use of the vehicle on public roads.

Any parts supplied cannot be warranted beyond the warranty of the specific manufacturer / supplier (engines have limited warranty - see Engine Section, and following paragraphs).

Engine warranties require normal and adequate maintenance. This includes oil and filter changes every 3000 miles. At installation time the radiator must be at least flushed and pressure tested by a competent radiator shop. The thermostat must be changed and all warning lights must always remain functional. The oil and filter must be changed at the first 500 miles. All engines built by MAZDATRIX are pre-run in order to assure compression, oil sealing, oil pressure, and cooling system (engine) functioning. Not just "spun" as some builders do - we run them on our test stand with gas, oil, ignition, etc. Correct ignition timing and carb/injection settings must be maintained at all times. Any engine returned for warranty claim will be disassembled prior to any exchanges/refunds.

Typical examples of abuse/faulty installation are:

Run low/out of oil - Rotor and/or main bearings damaged. Contact of rotor to rotor housing, premature wearing of oil control rings, blueing of eccentric shaft.

Over reving -Rotor to rotor housing contact, contact of corner seal area of rotor to side housing. Apex seal spring collapsing, excessive apex seal chatter, bent eccentric.

Malfunctioning oil metering system - Premature wear of apex seals, corner seals, and side seals. Metal-to-metal contact of corner seal to side housing.

Timing advanced too much - Chipping/cracking/pitting of apex seals, excessive wear of apex and side seal grooves, collapsed apex springs.

Mixture too lean - Essentially the same as above.

Mixture to rich - Premature wear of apex, side, and corner seals, as well as excessive wear of oil control rings. Excessive carbon build-up on rotors.

Oil overheating - Excessive wear of just about everything, usually has bearing failure.

Water overheating - Smells burnt, warped rotor housing, frozen seals, collapsed springs, rotor to side housing contact. Blueing of metal pieces. Water seals actually disintegrating.

All of the above is damage that can be seen inside of the engine. This is ignoring the obvious abuse/poor installation clues such as nuts/bolt/washers/sockets/screwdriver tips/or paper clips imbedded in the rotor.

Electrical Items can not be returned or exchanged. We can not support the trial and error method of electrical diagnosis, and would you really feel comfortable buying an electrical part that had probably been installed in someone else's car?

All parts- unless specifically noted- are intended for U.S. Spec Left Hand Drive cars. We have no way to confirm fitment for RHD or non U.S. cars for any part.


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