Clutch and Flywheel Tools

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These are the Mazda Special Tools we have found to be either necessary, or very helpful for working on the clutch and/or flywheel. Some of them (like the Pilot Bearing Remover) may seem somewhat expensive, but pay for themselves the first time they are used by making the job easier and preventing damage to the parts and/or the person performing the repairs.


Image Part Number Description
Pilot Bearing Installing 49-MT-110 Pilot Bearing Installer -- Works great for installing pilot bearing, then the seal. Put bearing on tool, line it up, hit tool with hammer. Four inches of knurl to decrease the hammered knuckles / thumbs. Aluminum and inexpensive.
49-1285 Pilot Bearing Remover makes an absolute breeze of a sometimes almost impossible job. We tried most of the after market removers, many grinders, and homemade tools. The first time we used this correct tool we wondered why we ever bothered with anything else.
Clutch Alignment Tool All Rotary (non-turbo) Part Number
49-0033-05

All Turbo Part Number
49-0033-03
Clutch Alignment Tools are needed whenever a clutch is installed. Damage to the clutch disc is almost assured if alignment is not correct.
Nut Wrench 49-22000 Flywheel Nut Wrench makes removing the flywheel nut a lot easier when you do not have impact guns and the 2 1/8" socket needed.
Mazdatrix Flywheel Socket 49-22009HD 54 mm Impact Flywheel Socket - for removing flywheel nut if you have an air compressor and impact guns, or even just a long breaker bar and somebody / someway to hold the engine down. Socket is 3/4" drive.

(Please - do not try breaking that nut loose, with a breaker bar, with the engine on an engine stand !!)
Mazdatrix Flywheel Nut Socket 49-22009 54 mm Flywheel Socket - for removing flywheel nut assuming you have a long breaker bar and somebody / someway to hold the engine down. Socket is 3/4" drive.

(Please - do not try breaking that nut loose, with a breaker bar, with the engine on an engine stand !!)
Adapter 49-22008 3/4" adapter to use 1/2" drive. The flywheel nut is put on with over 300 foot-pounds of torque and this adpater CAN BREAK! BE CAREFUL!! (sorry - there is no warranty on it). Better to get a hold of a 3/4" breaker bar that has a warranty from somebody.

(Just to let you know kind of worst case - We have had a few where we needed to use our 1", 1200 foot pound, impact gun with our 1" drive impact 54mm socket!)
Non-Turbo Flywheel Stopper 49-220NT All non-turbo flywheels:
49-220NT
Does NOT Fit Automatic
Does Not Fit RX8, see below
Flywheel Stopper
Bolts to back of engine to hold flywheel while the large nut is taken off.
49-220TB Turbo Flywheel Stopper All RX7 Turbo and RX-8 flywheels and all automatic flexplates
49-220TB
Does Not fit RX8 Automatic
Flywheel Stopper 49-22001 This type of Flywheel Stopper is simply a flat bar with holes for bolting to the flywheel. It is then rotated until it hits something solid to hold the flywheel while the nut is removed.
Flywheel pullers are available, but we do not carry them, as the flywheel can easily be removed with a hammer.
Click Here to view our flywheel removal FAQ.
49-22003 Rear Counterweight Puller


Engine Stand Head
Engine Stand Head We have been getting requests for these kind of engine stand HEADS for years - we were always just explaining how to build them. These images show the type we use (you supply the actual engine stand !!) - just rummage around the garage and find some angle iron and pipe the right size, measure things, drill holes on the drill press, chop the right sizes with the chop saw, and weld all the pieces together.

For those who do not have angle iron and pipe, a drill press, chop saw, and welder, and an hour or two to spare (but DO have an engine stand) -- we now have them for sale.
Head w/Engine Head w/Vertical Engine Part Number

MZTX-ENG-STAND

(This is the "HEAD" only)

(Pipe size is 2 3/8 outside diameter - the most common size. PLEASE be sure your engine stand uses that size!!

Head w/Front Housing This type of engine stand head balances very nicely. It allows full engine disassembly and reassembly, easy "flipping" of engine to work on rear, front, bottom, etc.


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